How I Learned to Break the Rules of Hosting a Dawat

Though the word dawat is meant to be celebratory, it also inspires a fear that many Pakistanis aren’t willing to admit. In Urdu and Hindi, dawat directly translates to “feast.” In my mind, it’s hosting in the fussiest way possible.

There are Pakistani hosts, mostly women, who have dawat down to a science. They prepare elaborate dinners for groups of 12 or more. Given the number of dishes on the table, which can range from six to 10, you might think they would be simple. They are not. Each recipe requires care and precision. The timing of pulao or biryani needs to be exact so that each grain of rice remains whole and perfect; cutlets, whether they be silky meat patties like shami kebabs, or fried potatoes like aloo tikki, need to be uniform in shape, texture, and taste. A four-ingredient chutney needs to have just the right balance of flavors—not too spicy, not too sour.

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